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Thursday, April 22, 2010

Caesar Salad v1.0


I looked over romaine for a long time. Even in my arugula post from last year I literally said "fuck romaine".
But it's been haunting me lately.
There has constantly been a bubbling craving for those romaine hearts. I always enjoyed how juicy and crunchy they were and the way they bring the Caesar dressing together.

Here I isolated the heart from all other parts of the lettuce, then I separated all the ingredients involved in a Caesar dressing and made powders out of them. This way the "water" from the heart liquifies all of the dried ingredients to end in what tastes like a Caesar salad.

This is v1.0 because it can taste better. Look better. The idea is for this to be an amuse-bouche with enough punch to feel like you spent the last 20 minutes eating a Caesar salad.

Caesar Salad v1.0

Anchovy Powder
Pat anchovies as dry as possible
Deep fry in canola oil @ 350ºF until completely crispy
Strain and pat dry on paper towels
Grind fried anchovies in a coffee grinder to a fine powder, scraping down the sides as needed.

Garlic Powder
Peel garlic clove and slice as thinly as possible
Deep fry in canola oil @ 300ºF until there are no more bubbles around garlic slices (about 10+ min)
Strain and pat dry on paper towels.
Grind fried garlic in a coffee grinder to a fine powder, scraping down the sides as needed.

Egg Yolk Powder
Hard boil one egg.
Separate whites from yolk, keeping yolk intact.
Set aside whites and save for another use
Put whole yolk in a container in the freezer for at least 1/2 an hour (or until frozen)

Romaine Lettuce Hearts
Break off a whole leaf of lettuce, with stem attached
Cut off top, leafy portion, leaving just the white portion of lettuce
Trim the ends, leaving just the heart intact
cut into 3-4 equal sized small portions

To Finish
Toast bread crumbs in oven or over a dry pan until lightly toasted

Put about 3/4 tbsp. lemon juice in a bowl
While whisking, slowly add olive oil in a steady stream until fully incorporated
Whisk in salt and pepper

Coat romaine hearts in olive oil dressing
Put one coated lettuce heart on small plate
Sprinkle garlic and anchovy powders equally ( a small amount, these are very powerful concentrated flavors) onto hearts

Take egg yolk out of freezer
Using a small, fine grater, grate egg yolk over romaine hearts
Grate parmesan cheese over hearts
Sprinkle toasted breadcrumbs

wow...

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Underdog Ingredient

Some food gets a bad rep. Some get no rep at all. Zucchini tends to fall in the latter category and on the categorical ladder, it's usually at the bottom (not to mention alphabetically as well). There's no underdog like zucchini. I bought some this weekend in hopes to let zucchini shine and have a leading role for once. It's won for supporting roles in ratatouille, pupusas and mücver. It almost won for tempura, but has often been defeated by carrot and sweet potato.

Here, I've fried slices of said squash in bacon fat that was rendered from the finely ground bacon trailing the back of the dish. Sandwiched between slices of extra sharp white cheddar, it sits atop a sauce made from brown butter, lemon, burnt onion stock, rosemary and cocoa. I love the way the zucchini crisps up, soaks in the fat and has a Maillard crust.

What other unsung produce is out there? Cuts of meat, fruits, vegetables, herbs. Maybe the future of cuisine lies in bringing forth the ingredients behind the scenes.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Veal . Cocoa . Zucchini . Cippolini . Fennel . Corn . Parmesan
Crispy Veal Leg . Pickled Fennel + Fronds . Parmesan
Cocoa-Braised Cippolini's
Zucchini & Corn with Black Pepper & Rosemary

Saturday, March 27, 2010


soaking tripe for dessert

Thursday, March 18, 2010

The Deception Exception

I love to play with the eye. It can most often be our biggest deceiver in expectations. We have also trained ourselves to rely on it way too much. The dining experience would be a lot different if the diner were blindfolded, or even had their dinner presented to them with no menu and no description as to what they are eating. Being comfortable with familiarity only makes sense, but why not trust a chef? Omakase in Japanese restaurants translates to "it's up to you" (the "you" referring to the chef). Most likely, we wouldn't be able to understand the chef composing on the spot, so we just accept and hopefully enjoy.

The dish above is a very simple setting of watermelon radish with arugula tossed in olive oil and fig white balsamic. I love how the radish, thinly sliced, resembles a well-marbled piece of high quality beef. It'd be great to make a carpaccio of said radish with kobe or wagyu looking identical and never being sure of which you're going to bite in to. Surprise is an element of progression in contemporary cuisine. Let us never be prepared.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Chorizo Stock

This should bode well in cooking mollusks, poaching fish and adding to a basic pomodoro (which is currently simmering). I love extracting those spicy, smoky, meaty flavors to enhance seafood and vegetables that can handle it. Just thinking about the way clams pair greatly with bacon and how lovely this would bring familiar flavors in toying with paella. I hope to use it a lot very soon!

Monday, February 22, 2010

Surf on Turf

Kingfish.Chickpeas.Radish.Carrot.Mustard.Pumpkin Seed
Sauteed Kingfish
Chickpea Puree
Braised Carrots
Truffled Watermelon Radish
Braised Mustard Seed
Pumpkin-Seed Coffee Powder

Friday, February 19, 2010

Fallbruary aka Warming Global

Squash.Shiitake.Pumpkin Seed.Hazelnut.Bacon
Butternut Squash Soup
Braised Shiitake Mushrooms
Cilantro-Bacon Vinaigrette
Pumpkin Seed Powder
Micro Oregano Leaves
Toasted Hazelnuts

Has anyone noticed the seasons are happening later and later every year? Maybe Al Gore has a point, everyone. Global warming might cause the seasons to completely swap in the far future. Not saying that Al Gore said that, I'm just piecing together some observation. With this theory in mind, my culinary receptors are longing for fall. It could also be that in Miami, fall does not exist. No one is raking up fallen palm tree leaves for suburban children to dive into. Rather, they sweep water off of porches and their children are forced to play with quivering mulatto canines. It's more Rottweilerian than Rockwellian.

Alas, one of the most beautiful things about food is that it can transcend your home's stubborn climate and give you access to flavors in seasonal and cultural representation. Global warming is exactly what food does. It warms our bodies while giving us a global tour of agriculture and resources.

The shiitakes were braised with fig marmalade, chipotle, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, black pepper, soy sauce, fig vinegar and a couple throws of chicken stock.

The soup was made with roasted butternut squash (simply, with olive oil and thyme) then skinned and roughly cubed added to some sauteing ginger (lots of ginger!) and onion. Covered with chicken stock and water, brought to a simmer and thrown in the blender with couple pats of butter and salt to taste.

Toasted pumpkin seeds & hazelnuts. Grounded the pumpkin seeds to fine powder and chopped the hazelnut interiors.

Vinaigrette: bacon, cilantro, garlic: all diced with fig vinegar and olive oil.

Topped with picked oregano leaves.

Really a quite simple dish, it just takes a little care. You can make the mushrooms and squash soup at the same time, essentially. The point was basically to make a very simple squash soup and put all of the bold, intense flavors into the mushrooms, so it sort of pops in the middle. The pumpkin and hazelnut are for texture and familiar flavor. The acidity of vinaigrette with smokiness of bacon and freshness of oregano and cilantro round out the whole dish to achieve a "well-balanced fall"

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Salmon,Watermelon Radish.Hass Avocado Puree.Peach.Braised Mustard Seed.Cranberry.Jalapeno